The panel is 2mm anodized aluminum (bronze finish) with custom screw holes and cutouts to precisely fit the displays. It cost $41.98 plus $4.95 for ground shipping. It took 7 days from submission of the file to completion of the job. Here's how it went:
Front Panel Designer Software
Rather than work from sketches or CAD files, FPE provides free software for designing panels and enclosures. The advantage of this approach becomes clear immediately: The software is designed around FPE's machining capabilities and materials inventory, and the program provides instant price quotes as you work. For example, as I laid out my panel, I found that the incremental cost of the engraving was trivial, but I could save the cost of a tool change if I were to eliminate it altogether. I split the difference, and saved a few cents by turning off "infill" (filling the letters with paint), relying instead on the contrast between the anodized surface and the raw aluminum beneath.
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| Front Panel Designer Screenshot with Pricing Window. |
Although the flush mounting looks great, I might forego it in a cost-sensitive application. Machining the cavity cost almost $10. And it entails a slight complication: The outside corners of the cavity are rounded, an artifact of being cut with a router bit. The corners of the BEZ-216 faceplate are square, so an additional step was required to clip the corners.
Installation with BEZ-216 Mounting Kit
The BEZ-216 comes with flathead screws designed for use in countersunk holes. The self-adhesive faceplate that is applied over top conceals the screw heads completely.
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| BEZ-216 Parts. |
Taking this into account, I used the designer software to specify the precise size, angle and depth of countersink. When I received the panel, I was delighted to see that the specs translated into perfect holes.
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| Countersunk Holes. |
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| Bolting on the GLO-216Y. |
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| Installed Displays. |
Finally it was time to install the faceplates. These have a peel-off backing and industrial-strength acrylic adhesive. Although they can be repositioned (if done quickly), it's best to get it right the first time. For the flush mounting, I left the backing in place and held the faceplate against the recess/cavity for a test fit. It looked good, but I was bothered by the strip of raw aluminum visible around the edge. Grabbed a black Sharpie marker and traced the perimeter inside the cavity. Much better. Then I used a nail clipper to trim the corner points off the faceplate, removing just a tiny speck of material from each corner. Peeled and stuck--perfect.Repeated the process with the second, top-mount display (leaving the corners intact). If it hadn't been for fussing with the camera, the process would have taken five minutes.






Thank you so much its a wonderful sharing tips.
ReplyDeleteYou can save yourself a few bucks by using the "rectangle within rectangle" shape when you insert a "cavity". This will avoid all the machining of the inner rectangle which will be cut out anyway.
ReplyDelete